1. Increase your cadence
Your "cadence" is the number of rotations that your pedal makes in 1 minute. You can check your cadence by counting how many times a single pedal rotates over a period of 15 seconds, then multiply that by 4 to get your rpms (Rotations Per Minute). An easier and more accurate way to measure cadence is to use a cyclo-computer with a cadence feature such as the $60 Cat Eye Astrale. Like cheaper cyclo-computers, the Astrale calculates trip distance, current and average speed, but the cadence feature is well worth the extra cost. Check and see if the bike store will include installation with purchase, as they can be somewhat tricky to set up.
High cadence allows you to cycle for longer periods of time because it spares your muscles by employing your cardiovascular system instead. Inexperienced cyclists often pedal at too high a gear, which slows their cadence down. They sometimes think that this is better exercise because they are pushing harder on the pedals, but that's not so. If you're "powering" along on high gears you'll quickly use up the limited glycogen in your muscles and bonk out. Pushing hard on the pedals in too hard a gear also increases stress on your joints, and often is the cause of knee pain.
Aim for a cadence of 80-90 rpm on flat roads, more if you have knee problems. If this rate is difficult for you, shift to an easier gear and try to "release" the legs to allow them to spin faster - spinning classes are excellent training for this. It may take some practice to increase your average cadence, but once you do, you'll have a more efficient pedal stroke and your legs will stay much "fresher" during and after long rides.
2. Pedal smoothly
It's important to pedal in smooth circles, applying pressure evenly throughout the pedal stroke. To improve your pedal stroke, practice one-legged pedal drills (this assumes you are using clipless pedals or toe clips). While cycling, take one foot out of the clip and pedal with one leg for a minute. Imagine that there is a circle attached to the side of your crankset and try and "trace" that circle with your foot. If you're not engaging the pedal throughout the full rotation, you'll probably feel the pedal hit dead air around 9-12 o'clock (towards the rear and up) and hear a "clank" as your pedal skips to the front, which means that your stroke is not as efficient as it could be.
A simple mental exercise is to think about scraping mud off the soles of your shoes when your feet are at the 5 o'clock position (pedal still forward, but after you've pushed down). Here, you are trying to pull back on the pedal in between pushing down and pulling up. Then pull up by "kicking" your feet over the top of the stroke from 9-1 o'clock - think about standing on a log and trying to roll it forward using your feet. Try to keep your feet mostly flat throughout the rotation, but with some flex in the ankles.
It's not easy to break yourself of the habit of hammering on the pedals one at a time, as if you were jogging, but with practice, every rider can improve. Keep doing those one-legged pedalling drills and your overall riding ability will improve immensely. For more information on pedalling form and cadence, see www.roadcycling.com/training/victory.shtml.
3. Watch your form
Keep your knees tucked into towards the top post so that your legs move straight up and down. I see a lot of cyclists ride with their knees poking out slightly, which results in wasted energy, sore knees, and a less aerodynamic form. Your back should be flat and your shoulders and elbows relaxed to avoid weaving and absorb bumps, which prevents soreness in the neck and shoulders.
4. Spin up hills
Before an incline starts, choose an easy gear that will allow you to keep spinning your legs as quickly as possible as you ascend. This is very important in avoiding fatigue, as well as injury - knee problems are often caused by climbing hills in too high a gear. Aim for a cadence of 70-90 rpms and shift to your easiest gear if necessary! Keep your chest open to allow you to breath freely and get more oxygen into your lungs - if you are riding a road bike, it helps to shift your hands to the tops of the handlebars on steep climbs.
Climbing in the seated position strengthens leg muscles and uses the least amount of energy, but may be slower than standing. Climbing in the standing position provides maximum downward force to the pedals and gives your butt a break from the saddle, but taxes your cardio system and can wear you out quicker. Use a combination of both positions, depending on the steepness of the hill and your energy level.
Concentrate on a smooth pedal stroke and don't forget to pull up on the pedals as well as push down (see "Powerful Pedalling"). Don't shift gears while pushing down hard on the pedals as this is hard on your crankset - try to unweight the pedals as you shift.
5. Descend wisely
As much fun as it is to hammer down hills, you actually expend proportionately more energy to increase your speed while descending than while riding on the flats. So save your power and use your descents for recovery!
On steep downhills, keep your eyes
straight ahead, your butt back over the saddle, your pedals level and
your knees bent to absorb bumps. If you are on a road bike, ride with
your hands in the drops of the handlebars and your back low - this will
make you more aerodynamic and will prevent you from going over the
handlebars should you need to stop suddenly (be sure that no one is
right behind you).
On easy descents, keep your legs moving by continuing to pedal, but
with very low pressure or speed. This technique maintains circulation
in the legs and helps to clear built-up lactic acid from your muscles.
Follow these tips and you'll find yourself in Montreal in no time flat, with energy to spare!
Last Updated on Tuesday, 01 January 2008 09:50
