- Increase your cadence
- Pedal smoothly
- Watch your form
- Spin up hills
- Descend wisely
1. Increase your cadence
Your "cadence" is the number of rotations that your pedal makes in 1
minute. You can check your cadence by counting how many times a single
pedal rotates over a period of 15 seconds, then multiply that by 4 to
get your rpms (Rotations Per Minute). An easier and more accurate way
to measure cadence is to use a cyclo-computer with a cadence feature
such as the $60 Cat Eye Astrale. Like cheaper cyclo-computers, the
Astrale calculates trip distance, current and average speed, but the
cadence feature is well worth the extra cost. Check and see if the bike
store will include installation with purchase, as they can be somewhat
tricky to set up.
High cadence allows you to cycle
for longer periods of time because it spares your muscles by employing
your cardiovascular system instead. Inexperienced cyclists often pedal
at too high a gear, which slows their cadence down. They sometimes
think that this is better exercise because they are pushing harder on
the pedals, but that's not so. If you're "powering" along on high gears
you'll quickly use up the limited glycogen in your muscles and bonk
out. Pushing hard on the pedals in too hard a gear also increases
stress on your joints, and often is the cause of knee pain.
Aim for a cadence of 80-90 rpm on
flat roads, more if you have knee problems. If this rate is difficult
for you, shift to an easier gear and try to "release" the legs to allow
them to spin faster - spinning classes are excellent training for this.
It may take some practice to increase your average cadence, but once
you do, you'll have a more efficient pedal stroke and your legs will
stay much "fresher" during and after long rides.
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2. Pedal smoothly
It's important to pedal in smooth
circles, applying pressure evenly throughout the pedal stroke. To
improve your pedal stroke, practice one-legged pedal drills (this
assumes you are using clipless pedals or toe clips). While cycling,
take one foot out of the clip and pedal with one leg for a minute.
Imagine that there is a circle attached to the side of your crankset
and try and "trace" that circle with your foot. If you're not engaging
the pedal throughout the full rotation, you'll probably feel the pedal
hit dead air around 9-12 o'clock (towards the rear and up) and hear a
"clank" as your pedal skips to the front, which means that your stroke
is not as efficient as it could be.
A simple mental exercise is to
think about scraping mud off the soles of your shoes when your feet are
at the 5 o'clock position (pedal still forward, but after you've pushed
down). Here, you are trying to pull back on the pedal in between
pushing down and pulling up. Then pull up by "kicking" your feet over
the top of the stroke from 9-1 o'clock - think about standing on a log
and trying to roll it forward using your feet. Try to keep your feet
mostly flat throughout the rotation, but with some flex in the ankles.
It's not easy to break yourself of
the habit of hammering on the pedals one at a time, as if you were
jogging, but with practice, every rider can improve. Keep doing those
one-legged pedalling drills and your overall riding ability will
improve immensely. For more information on pedalling form and cadence,
see www.roadcycling.com/training/victory.shtml.
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3. Watch your form
Keep your knees tucked into
towards the top post so that your legs move straight up and down. I see
a lot of cyclists ride with their knees poking out slightly, which
results in wasted energy, sore knees, and a less aerodynamic form. Your
back should be flat and your shoulders and elbows relaxed to avoid
weaving and absorb bumps, which prevents soreness in the neck and
shoulders.
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4. Spin up hills
Before an incline starts, choose
an easy gear that will allow you to keep spinning your legs as quickly
as possible as you ascend. This is very important in avoiding fatigue,
as well as injury - knee problems are often caused by climbing hills in
too high a gear. Aim for a cadence of 70-90 rpms and shift to your
easiest gear if necessary! Keep your chest open to allow you to breath
freely and get more oxygen into your lungs - if you are riding a road
bike, it helps to shift your hands to the tops of the handlebars on
steep climbs.
Climbing in the seated position
strengthens leg muscles and uses the least amount of energy, but may be
slower than standing. Climbing in the standing position provides
maximum downward force to the pedals and gives your butt a break from
the saddle, but taxes your cardio system and can wear you out quicker.
Use a combination of both positions, depending on the steepness of the
hill and your energy level.
Concentrate on a smooth pedal
stroke and don't forget to pull up on the pedals as well as push down
(see "Powerful Pedalling"). Don't shift gears while pushing down hard
on the pedals as this is hard on your crankset - try to unweight the
pedals as you shift.
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5. Descend wisely
As much fun as it is to hammer
down hills, you actually expend proportionately more energy to increase
your speed while descending than while riding on the flats. So save
your power and use your descents for recovery!
On steep downhills, keep your eyes
straight ahead, your butt back over the saddle, your pedals level and
your knees bent to absorb bumps. If you are on a road bike, ride with
your hands in the drops of the handlebars and your back low - this will
make you more aerodynamic and will prevent you from going over the
handlebars should you need to stop suddenly (be sure that no one is
right behind you).
On easy descents, keep your legs moving by continuing to pedal, but
with very low pressure or speed. This technique maintains circulation
in the legs and helps to clear built-up lactic acid from your muscles.
Follow these tips and you'll find yourself in Montreal in no time flat, with energy to spare!
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