Friends For Life Bike Rally - A Benefit for the Toronto People With AIDS Foundation

• Getting started
• Types of bikes
• Make sure it's the right fit
• How much to spend

 Necessary Gear

• The saddle
• Pedals
• Helmet style and fit
• Other important gear

Getting started

The first step to finding out the best bike for you is to find the best bike store for you. You can find a fairly comprehensive directory of Toronto area bike stores on the Toronto Bicyling Network website. Don’t rush this process – be selective! Word of mouth is often the best way to find the right shop, so ask around at our training rides and meet & greets. Being involved in the Bike Rally gives you access to lots of opinionated cyclists, so use them wisely!

If someone has had a good experience at a bike shop, make sure you find out who they were dealing with – buying the right bicycle always comes down to finding the right salesperson. Buying a bike necessitates establishing a long-term relationship, because if you’re satisfied you’ll want to go back to them for your tune-ups, accessories and upgrades. This means that you need to find a salesperson who will pay attention to your current wishes while being able to foresee your potential needs, as opposed to selling you something that doesn’t suit you or won’t last.

When you’re ready, browse around a few stores, talk to staff about what you want, and take your time. Try to visit during the week (not during lunchtime) when the stores are usually quieter and the staff will have more time to spend with you. Ask LOTS of questions, write them down in advance if you have to. There is no such thing as too much information when you are buying something as important as a bike – it can make the difference between years of cycling pleasure or a bicycle that just sits in the corner and collects dust. Good shops will have knowledgeable staff who will answer your questions and make you feel comfortable, no matter what your level of experience or your budget. If they don't, just walk out and try somewhere else.

Find out the store's warranty policy. It is standard to offer a free service check after the first month's use to re-tension cables and spokes or adjust headsets. Some stores will hand out up to three years of free warranty tune-ups, depending on the bike you buy. Steer away from department stores – while they may have better prices, the stock is substandard and the staff don't have the experience of independent bike stores.

Some stores may also give special discounts to Bike Rally participants – just ask them. The fact is, any good bike store is going to do their best to give you a sweet deal because they value your return business. It's standard to knock off 10% off the bike and/or accessories when you buy them all together.

Every new bike should be taken back to the bike shop for a post-purchase 30-day check. Under your weight, spokes loosen, making the wheels wobble; derailleur cables stretch, making gear changes clunky; and bolts loosen. After the 30-day tune-up, your components will be settled in and ready for the long haul.

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Types of bikes

With such a wide range of bikes on today's market, finding the right one for you can be intimidating. So before you throw down your hard-earned cash, do your homework. Again, talk to other riders about the bike you want to get. Most cyclists are happy to discuss bikes for ages (and then some) – just make sure that they are advising you about the type of cycling that you are actually interested in. Check out cycling magazines and the internet to learn more about what's out there.

Identify your cycling needs. You may be buying a bike for the ride to Montreal, but what do you want to use it for after the rally is over? Commuting, off-roading, racing? What follows is a general overview of the kinds of bikes on the market– depending on the model you buy, certain bikes can cross genres in terms of frame weight, gears selection and tire make. (Shimano also has a great section that details all the different types of bikes within the Road, Mountain and Lifestyle catagories> In the left-hand column they have links to both a glossary and product line for each category, to help you understand the relevant lingo and components. Highly recommended reading.)

Road Bikes - Racing

Good for going long distances on smooth roads and built for speed, usually light. Although it takes getting used to, the forward-leaning riding position provides less wind resistance and more efficient pedaling action. The drop handlebars allow for more hand positions so your arms and wrists don't get as tired on long rides. Most have a double chain ring with 12-20 gears ranging from medium to high, but entry-level models often have a triple chain ring to make climbing hills easier for beginning cyclists. The wheelbase (the distance between where the tires touch the road) is short, which also takes some getting used to, but makes the bike very responsive.

Road Bikes - Touring

Designed to travel long distances comfortably with loads of luggage, but not necessarily quickly. They have a wider wheelbase and a slightly more upright riding position than the racing model, making them a little easier to handle. They have a triple chain ring for 18-27 gears, ranging from low to high. These aren’t as popular as the other bikes, so selection is limited.

Mountain Bikes

A mountain bike (sometimes referred to as an all-terrain bike or ATB) is usually outfitted for going short distances on rough roads or trails. Typically has a strong medium weight frame and a triple chain ring, with 18-27 gears ranging from very low to medium for climbing steep hills. The position is forward leaning with the handlebars set below the level of the saddle. Bar-ends can be added for a greater variety of hand positions. The knobby tires are designed for gripping mud and are slow going on smooth roads – if you want to use a mountain bike for the ride to Montreal, purchase a pair of "slicks", which are narrower, smoother and way faster.

Hybrids

A great all-around bike, suitable for comfortably riding medium distances on a variety of surfaces. They are fairly light weight and equipped with a triple chain ring with 18-27 gears ranging from very low to high and smooth tires. The riding position is more upright than other bikes, which is great for ease of use and riding in the city, but less efficient for hills or high speeds. If you want to use the bike for city commuting after the bike rally is over, this may be the bike for you.

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Make sure it's the right fit

No matter what kind of bike you buy, a frame that’s too large or small will handicap your riding ability and can potentially cause injury. Though components can be replaced and upgraded, there’s not much point in replacing a frame so make sure it’s the right size for you. If you are undecided between two frame sizes, it's usually best to go for the smaller one.

To Check Frame Height: Straddle the bike. You should have one to two inches of clearance between the top bar of the bike and your crotch, three to four inches if you’re going to be riding on off-road terrain.

To Check Frame Length: When you are in normal riding position with your hands on the handlebars (or on the "tops" on drop handlebars), the handlebars should obscure your view of the front wheel’s hub. Be sure when you sit on the bike you can comfortably reach the handlebars. If the handlebars are too far away you’ll be stretched out with inadequate control, if they’re too close you’ll be crunched up and easily tired.

Seat and Handlebar Adjustment: Insist that the bike shop personnel do a proper fitting before you purchase a bike. A critical adjustment is seat height. Your knee should have a 25-30 degree bend when the ball of your foot is on the pedal at its lowest position. The handlebars should be one inch lower than, or the same height as, the seat. Check that you can comfortably reach the brakes and that the width of the handlebars are approximately the width of your shoulders.

Always take any bike that you are considering purchasing for a brief test ride to get its feel. Try the brakes, make turns, and get a sense of how the bike maneuvers. Shift up and down all the gears, which should function smoothly and quietly.

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How much to spend

Bikes range from $200 to $8000 in price and everyone's needs are different, so this is a very personal issue. Though bargains do exist, in the world of bikes you generally get what you pay for. If you are willing to spend the money you will get better materials, better components, superior construction, more features and lighter weight. That said, any bike is better than no bike. With proper care and maintenance, even the cheaper and simpler bikes can carry you for many years to come.

If you use the bike a lot, you can always upgrade parts if they become worn down, or if you just want better performance. However, the one thing that rarely gets replaced is the frame. Since it’s the most expensive part of the bike, it usually makes more sense to just buy a new bike rather than upgrade the frame alone. Always ask about the next model up and down from the bike in your budget, to find out what the differences are from the one that you are considering.

If you're looking at secondhand bikes, you need to be very careful about what you are buying, since you probably won't get a warranty and it's hard to know what's a fair price. Test drive the bike extensively and check the frame, components and tires for damage, rust or general wear and tear. Some bikes have obsolete components which may not be replaceable if they malfunction. Take an experienced cyclist with you to check out the bike if you aren't confidant of your own knowledge on the subject. If you purchase a used bike, take it to a good shop for a full servicing immediately.

Spend as much as you can afford, but remember to hold back some cash for accessories! Depending on how much you spend on your bike, most bike stores will give you a discount on accessories and install them on your bike for free.

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Necessary Gear

The saddle

Saddle shapes and padding are often a matter of individual preference. How the saddle is shaped is more critical for riding comfort than the amount of gel or foam padding. Sometimes too much gel can actually cause perineal numbness rather than alleviate it, and can cause bouncing, which wastes energy. What's important is that the saddle support your "sit" bones, which will reduce the pressure on sensitive areas. Cutaway centres are also helpful in avoiding discomfort.

It's not unusual to go through a few saddles and a lot of adjustments before you find the perfect support for your butt. Here's a great article on saddles and correct saddle adjustment .

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Pedals

If you are going to be doing any kind of long distance riding (and we know you are), you need to seriously consider purchasing clipless pedals or toeclips. Regular pedals may be fine for riding around town, but they waste a lot of energy and sacrifice a lot of control. It won't be long before you feel fatigue and pain from constantly pushing down and bending your foot over the top of the pedal.

Using clipless pedals will allow you to transfer power to the pedals more efficiently (with up to 30% more power!) and prevents your feet from slipping. While newbies may be intimidated by the idea of being attached to the bike by clipless pedals, they are just as easy to get out of as clips — it's just a simple twist of the ankle and before long it becomes instinctive.

Another big advantage of most clipless pedals is that they allow your foot to "float", which helps take pressure off your knees. If you are still scared, or on a really tight budget, you can purchase toe clips which are cages that will bolt onto standard pedals. But if you are buying a bike, the shop will likely give you a good deal on a pair of clipless pedals to go with it, as well as a free lesson in using them.

Here's a great article on clipless pedals and proper cleat placement .

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Helmet style and fit

You are required to wear a helmet at all times while cycling on Friends For Life training rides and on the ride to Montreal. Make sure that you have a helmet that bears a label saying it meets the Canadian Standards Association standard CAN/CSA D113.2 M89; or the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) standard Z90.40 1984; the Snell Memorial Foundation standard B 90,B 90S, N 94, or B 95; the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) standard F 1447 93 or F 1447 94.

The main difference between helmets made for road cycling and those made for off-roading is in the vent design. Road helmets have longer narrower vents to provide good airflow while remaining aerodynamic. Off-road helmets have wider vents, as it's assumed that you won't be riding as fast but still need to cool off. Road helmets also don't feature visors as they obstruct vision when riding in the more bent-over road cycling position.

A good modern helmet will weigh around 10 or 11 ounces (284 or 312g) or even less. Even though more weight doesn't seem like a lot, after a few hours on a bike even a few ounces can seem heavy - stick with something lightweight.

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The Right Fit

A helmet should fit snugly on the top of the head and not obstruct your field of vision. Most helmets come with adjustable padding to achieve the best fit. The front of the helmet should be about two finger widths above the eyebrows.

When buckled, you should be able to fit one finger between the chin strap and under the chin. The yoke buckles (plastic pieces connecting from and rear straps) should rest at the corner of your jawbone, below your ears. In use, the side yolk straps must be taut with the helmet level on your head as you fasten the chin strap. Excess chin straps can be trimmed and the cut edge melted to prevent fraying.

It's important to wear the helmet level. If it's tilted back like a baseball cap, it will leave your forehead exposed in the case of an accident. If it's tilted forward, it will obstruct your vision and potentially cause an accident.

Here are three tests to check for a secure helmet fit.

• The shake test. Shake your head from side to side. The fit pads should hold it snugly in place.
• The open-mouth test. When you buckle the chin strap and open your mouth, you should feel the helmet press firmly against the top of your head.
• Peel-off test. If you can "peel" the helmet off your head to the front or rear when the chin strap is tightened, the straps need to be tightened more.

Do not use a helmet after it has been involved in an accident. Damage to the helmet may not be visible to an untrained eye. Even very small cracks in the helmet may greatly reduce a helmet's effectiveness in preventing injury.

Studies have shown that using a bicycle helmet can reduce head injuries by up to 85%. You don't have to be going fast or far to risk serious head injuries. A helmet may not seem as fashionable as a bandana, but permanent brain damage is definitely not cool!

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Other important gear

You're going to get thirsty, so you'll need two water bottles and bottle cages and/or a Camelback hydration system. By Ontario law, you are required to have a bell installed on your bike. (It's also handy for making lots of noise when we arrive in Montreal.)

You'll have to buy a portable frame pump to carry with you on the road in case of flats. Look for a pump that will fit your valves and inflate your tires to the pressure you need – road bike pumps deliver more air pressure. You should also have a floor pump for inflating your tires efficiently before going on a ride, as the smaller frame pump takes a lot of strokes and is really only meant for getting you home after a flat.

Purchase spare tubes and a patch kit. Please note that once you crack open the rubber cement for the patches, it begins to evaporate and will dry up within about 6 months. So if you already own a patch kit, be sure to check that the rubber cement is still good – don't wait until you're in the middle of nowhere with a flat and no spare! An alternative is to buy glueless patches, also know as "scabs". While not as permanent as glued patches, they can last a couple of years, which is longer than the tire probably will.

You'll also need tire levers, and should seriously consider buying an all-in-one minitool with Allen wrenches, screwdriver, chain tool and more for making adjustments and emergency repairs while on the road. And finally, purchase a saddle bag to carry all this stuff in. Now you're geared up and ready to hit the road!

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