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We all know the importance of accessorizing, but nowhere is this more crucial than when cycling. Choosing the right equipment and clothing for a ride can sometimes make the difference between comfort and misery. Bike stores and shows may often seem like an endless jungle of gear and gizmos, but having an idea of what you need and when you need it will ensure a more pleasant and cost-efficient shopping experience.
For purposes of budgeting, I have included approximate prices (all
funds in Canadian dollars), but note that depending on the make and
brand of the item discussed, costs can vary wildly. Quoted prices start
at entry-level, but keep in mind that when it comes to cycling gear, as
in most things, you usually get what you pay for. Investing in more
expensive gear will usually give you a better quality product that will
last longer, so be sure to compare all your options and ask lots of
questions.
Bike components
Saddle
Saddles come in a huge variety of
models and the right one for you is most often a matter of individual
preference and fit. How the saddle is shaped is more critical for
riding comfort than the amount of gel or foam padding. Sometimes too
much padding can actually cause you to sink into the saddle,
aggravating numbness rather than alleviating it. An overly soft saddle
can also cause bouncing, which wastes energy - hence the
uncomfortable-looking hard seats used by many racing pros.
What's important is that the
saddle provide support for your sit bones, which will reduce the
pressure on sensitive areas and reduce chafing. You can locate your sit
bones by sitting on a low platform, such as a curb, and noting where
your butt contacts the surface.
A cutaway or recess in the centre
of the saddle will usually help to prevent discomfort. The bars that
support the saddle (called "rails") make a difference as well - for
example, titanium rails absorb more road vibration and therefore are
noticeably more comfortable than standard alloy rails, especially over
longer distances.
Decent saddles start at around $50
though many cyclists will spend up to $120-$150 for true riding
comfort. It's not unusual to go through a few saddles and adjustments
before you find the perfect set-up - some stores will let you return a
saddle within a certain amount of time, so ask around.
For a good article on saddles, seat adjustment and comfort, go to www.caree.org/bike101saddles.htm.
Pedals
Being able to pull up on the
pedals as well as push down is crucial for an efficient and powerful
pedal stroke, which prevents fatigue, discomfort and even injury. If
you are going to be doing any serious cycling, you should be using
clipless pedals ($50 and up), or at the very least, cages ($15) that
can be attached to standard pedals. People who have cycled for years on
regular flat pedals often describe the switch to clipless pedals as a
transformation of their riding experience.
There are many kinds of clipless
pedals in varying weights and styles, but they all do the job. Pedals
with sealed bearings cost more, but are smoother, lighter and need
minimal maintenance, if any. Some pedals feature more degrees of
"float", which refers to the amount that your foot can swivel while
clipped in. If you have knee problems, you should check out models that
allow plenty of float.
While the idea of being attached
to the pedals may be intimidating at first, they are easy to clip out
of with a simple twist of the ankle, and before long the action becomes
instinctive. As you coast in an empty parking lot or quiet street,
practice clipping in and out with just one foot, then the other. Most
pedals are adjustable so you can loosen them for practice. As you get
used to them, you'll want to tighten them for more efficient and
powerful pedalling.
Expect some frustration as you get
used to clipping into the pedals - it's a forward motion to make
contact with the cleat, then press down to clip in. Always clip in when
the pedal is at the bottom of the stroke - it's easier, and gives you a
consistent motion to get used to. When you are ready to head out on the
road, clip out well in advance of any place where you may have to stop,
such as intersections. Soon you won't even have to think about clipping
out when stopping - it becomes automatic.
For a good article on clipless pedals and cleat adjustment, go to www.caree.org/bike101cliplesspedals.htm.
Tires
One of the most cost-efficient ways to "upgrade" your bike is to
install new tires ($20 and up). If you use a mountain or hybrid bike
for road riding, buy a pair of "slicks", which are usually narrower and
smoother than the tires that come with the bike.
For long-distance road riding,
investing in a lighter, softer high-end tire results in less rolling
resistance and a silky-smooth ride. Quality tires cost more at about
$80 per tire (often found at the Toronto Bike Show for $40-50), but can
make a cheaper road bike feel like a more expensive model. Softer tires
are usually good for about 10,000km, but will wear down very quickly if
used on a stationary trainer, so buy a cheap tire to install on your
rear wheel for indoor training during the off-season.
Cyclo-computer
A cyclo-computer ($20 and up) will
help you monitor your training and follow a route map by giving you
important data such as speed and mileage. It's really worth spending
the extra money to get a computer that has a cadence feature ($50 and
up), as pedalling speed is paramount to improving as a cyclist.
Wireless models are tidier and
easier to install, but they generally cost more, and some models are
susceptible to interference. To conserve battery energy they usually
don't have an "auto-start" feature, which means that you have to
remember to turn the computer on every time you resume cycling after a
stop.
If you might ever use the bike for
indoor training, get a rear-mounted computer so you can still get a
reading while using a stationary trainer. Installing and programming
the computer can be a complicated process, so you may want to get the
bike store to do the job for you.
On the road essentials
For all-important hydration while
on the bike, you'll need bottle cages ($6 and up) and water bottles
($4-$8) to go in them, or a Camelback hydration system ($40 and up).
For the inevitable flat tires, buy
a portable frame pump ($15 and up) that attaches to your bike in case
of flats on the road. Check that the pump will inflate your tires to
the pressure you need - road bike tires need 110-120psi. Make sure the
pump will work with your tire valves - either Presta (the pointy one
used on skinny road tires) or Shraeder (the fat one used on wider
tires). If you can, test the pump in the store before purchasing it -
there are some real duds out there (good brands are Blackburn, Topeak
and Axiom). If the pump is adaptable, make sure it's set up correctly
for your valves before you take it on a ride.
An alternative to a frame pump are
CO2 cartridges, which, through an adapter that fits on the valve,
dispense enough air to completely inflate the tire in the shortest
amount of time. The disadvantage of cartridges is that if you get a lot
of flats on a ride and use up your supply, you're out of luck.
Always carry spare tube(s)
($4-$8), tire levers ($3) and a patch kit ($3). Note that once you open
a tube of rubber cement, it begins to evaporate and will dry up within
about 6 months, so check opened tubes occasionally to make sure they
are still usable.
Seriously consider buying an
all-in-one minitool ($10-$40) with Allen wrenches, screwdrivers and
more, for making adjustments and emergency repairs while on the road.
And finally, purchase a saddle bag ($20-$40) to carry all this stuff in
(though some cyclists prefer to carry it all in their jersey pockets).
If you're going to be riding at
twilight or in the dark, take lights as a safety precaution. Miniature
LED lights that are bright yet small enough to pop in your pocket are
available at most bike stores for as cheap as $4. They are meant more
for visibility rather than illumination.
Clothing
Helmet
A good helmet ($40 and up) should
bear a label saying it meets the Canadian Standards Association
standard CAN/CSA D113.2 M89; or the American National Standards
Institute (ANSI) standard Z90.40 1984; the Snell Memorial Foundation
standard B 90,B 90S, N 94, or B 95; the American Society for Testing
and Materials (ASTM) standard F 1447 93 or F 1447 94.
The main difference between
helmets made for road cycling and those made for off-roading is in the
vent design. Road helmets have longer narrower vents to provide good
airflow while remaining aerodynamic. Off-road helmets have wider vents,
as it's assumed that you won't be riding as fast but still need to cool
off. Road helmets don't need visors as they may obstruct vision when
riding in a more bent-over cycling position. More expensive helmets
feature superior vent design, fit-adjustment systems, and are made from
lighter materials, which can make a big difference after a few hours on
the bike.
Your helmet should fit snugly and
not obstruct your field of vision. Most helmets come with adjustable
padding to achieve the best fit. The front of the helmet should be
about two finger widths above your eyebrows. The helmet should be level
when worn. If it's tilted back like a baseball cap, it is next to
useless as it will leave your forehead exposed in the event of a
collision. If it's tilted forward, it may obstruct your vision.
When buckled, you should be able
to fit one finger between the chin strap and under the chin. The yoke
buckles (the plastic pieces connecting front and rear straps) should
rest at the corner of your jawbone, below your ears. In use, the side
yolk straps must be taut with the helmet level on your head as you
fasten the chin strap. Excess chin straps can be trimmed - melt the
edge of the trimmed strap to prevent fraying.
Here are three tests to check for a secure helmet fit:
- The shake test. Shake your head from side to side. The fit pads should hold it snugly in place.
- The
open-mouth test. When you buckle the chin strap and open your mouth,
you should feel the helmet press firmly against the top of your head.
- Peel-off
test. If you can "peel" the helmet off your head to the front or rear
when the chin strap is tightened, the straps need to be tightened more.
Do not use a helmet after it has been involved in an accident. Damage
to the helmet may not be visible to an untrained eye. Even very small
cracks in the helmet may greatly reduce a helmet's effectiveness in
preventing injury. All helmets deteriorate over time and should be
replaced after five years.
For more information on helmets, go to www.caree.org/bike101helmets.htm
Shoes
Wearing proper cycling shoes ($100
and up) makes a huge difference in riding comfort and ability. Sneakers
will do for fitness riding, but if you are covering longer distances,
cycling-specific footwear provides a more efficient power transfer to
the pedals that results in less fatigue and improved performance.
Shoes need to be snug, with no
fore-aft movement, but your toes should not touch the front of the
shoe. Road-style shoes generally have three straps for a more
adjustable fit. High-end models may have a ratchet system for
fine-tuning tightness while on the bike. Some new designs feature a
criss-cross lace system that distributes tightness evenly. Like
saddles, shoe choice is highly personal and the perfect footwear really
depends on the rider.
Though it may seem
counter-intuitive to comfort, the stiffer the sole the better. A stiff
sole provides more support - if the sole flexes, it means your feet
have to "wrap around" the pedal with each stroke, which may cause
discomfort over long rides. Carbon or carbon-reinforced soles are more
expensive but are very stiff as well as being lightweight. To test a
shoe for stiffness, try and bend it over your knee. A shoe that does
not flex much (if at all) is best.
Proper ventilation will help to
keep your feet comfortable during the journey, and may prevent "hot
foot" which can occur on long rides. Good quality shoes will feature a
combination of leather and mesh to help your feet breathe.
JerseysThe high-end fabrics used
in cycling jerseys ($50 and up) are lighter than wool and cotton, hold
their shape better, and help to keep you cool and dry by wicking sweat
to away from the skin and allowing moisture to evaporate. They feature
at least two or three pockets in the back to easily carry and access
snacks, tools, money and id. Jerseys with longer zippers can be opened
up for improved ventilation in hot conditions. Many serious road riders
(and fashionistas) wear jerseys with short sleeves to protect their
shoulders from extended sun exposure (and road rash, in case of a
fall), but some cyclists (and triathletes) prefer sleeveless models -
it's really a matter of personal preference.
Shorts
I have a formula for buying
shorts:$ spent on a pair of shorts = the number of kilometers you will
be able to ride in those shorts comfortably.
A pair of $50 shorts are fine for
jaunts around town and spinning classes, but once you get into longer
distances you will want to invest in better bottoms. You just can't put
a price on comfort in this area. More expensive shorts ($100-$150)
usually feature a more comfortable shammy (the padded area in the
crotch), flatlock stitching, a drawstring to help hold them up, and
superior panel construction that will last longer than cheaper models.
More panels also mean that the shorts will fit better.
When buying shorts, be sure that
they fit tightly - they will stretch over time. If the shorts become
loose and begin to sag they can cause chafing. And please, never wear
underwear under your cycling shorts. The whole point of a shammy is to
do away with uncomfortable seams - and panty lines are unsightly.
Gloves
Cycling gloves ($20 and up)
prevent numbness in the hands, and if you fall, they will protect your
palms from road rash. They should fit snug - when trying them on, make
a fist hands to check that they don't bunch up to much in the palms.
Gel padding is helpful, especially in the lower palm where the most
pressure is applied. Newer designs feature "fused" padding - the gel is
separated into smaller pockets which prevents it from getting pushed
around. A terry cloth thumb is great for wiping away unsightly snot,
sweat and energy bar crumbs. When removing gloves, peel them off
inside-out to prevent stretching them too much.
Sunglasses
Sunglasses are essential for
protecting your eyes from wind, dust and harmful UV rays. This is
another item where you get what you pay for - I won't even quote a
price as the range is so vast. More expensive sunglasses ($60-$300) are
lighter, tougher and more effective in difficult lighting conditions
than cheaper models. Good quality lenses are more scratch-resistant,
block more harmful UV rays, and can actually improve vision by
heightening contrast, which allows you to more easily spot obstacles on
the road surface ahead.
While dark lenses are ok, do check
out red or brown lenses that suit a wider range of lighting conditions.
Models that feature changeable lenses are a bonus - get a pair of
yellow lenses for very cloudy days and clear lenses if you ride in
heavy rain or dark conditions. When trying on eyewear, make sure the
nosepiece fits comfortably and that the shape of the frames allow total
peripheral vision.
Raincoat
Always carry a waterproof jacket
if there is any chance of rain. Even in warm weather, your body
temperature can drop dramatically if you get soaked, causing muscle
fatigue, misery, and in extreme cases, hypothermia.
Most cycling stores carry the
standard clear plastic raincoat ($20). While it's not very breathable
(most have vents under the arms), it will at least keep you warm and is
very packable. You can roll it into the size of a water bottle and wrap
it with a Velcro pant strap to tuck it into your jersey pocket in case
of sudden showers or a drop in temperature.
Cold weather clothes
Dressing for lower temperatures
can be quite a science - there are many options and combinations for
cold weather fashion. With practice, choosing the right outfit for a
ride becomes easier, but generally the trick is to dress in layers -
then you can remove or add clothing if conditions change.
A zip-up cycling vest ($40) is
indispensable - it helps to keep your core warm in cool and windy
conditions, but also folds up small to fit in your back pocket if you
no longer need it. Arm ($25), knee ($25) and leg ($40) warmers are a
cost-effective way to adapt your summer riding clothes for cooler
weather, and are easily removable if the temperature increases.
For chillier days, you may want a
lightweight cycling jacket ($60 and up). A good breathable jacket will
keep you warm and dry by allowing perspiration to escape while blocking
the wind. If you are on a budget, though, you can try and make do with
the vest and warmers mentioned above. A thermal undershirt ($30 and up)
will also help to regulate temperature while wicking sweat away.
Long finger gloves ($40 and up)
are essential for cooler weather. If it's very cold, lobster-style
gloves ($60) keep your hands warm while allowing you to still operate
your brakes (but these are probably not necessary past March). Optional
glove liners ($8) can be worn alone or underneath gloves to keep hands
warm by wicking away dampness. Optional shells ($20) are worn over
gloves in rainy or windy conditions and are easily stored in your back
pocket if no longer needed.
Most cycling shoes are ventilated,
so your precious toes are susceptible to numbness when the temperature
drops even just below º10 Celsius, making for an uncomfortable ride.
Foot covers are available in a range of models for various conditions,
from toe warmers ($20) for cool mornings to full neoprene booties ($40
and up) for winter riding. (A cheap solution is to cut holes in the
soles of a pair of thick wool socks to go over your shoes. Looks funny,
but it works) A pair of wool socks ($15-$30) will also help ward off
the chill.
For keeping your ears warm, a
thermal headband under your helmet is usually sufficient. A full helmet
liner is really only needed for very cold days.
Basic Maintenance
Floor Pump
You must have a floor pump ($40
and up) for inflating your tires to the maximum pressure before each
ride. Your frame pump is really only meant for emergencies - it's
inefficient for pumping to maximum pressure and will wear down quickly
with regular use. It's also impossible to tell if your tires are pumped
to the correct pressure without the gauge that is found on floor pumps
- you cannot measure psi by touch.
Chain cleaning tool
It is essential that you clean
your chain on a regular basis. A well-maintained chain will last
longer, cause less wear and tear to components, and provide a smoother,
noise-free ride. Not cleaning your chain will allow grit to collect in
the links and wear down your cogs prematurely, which will force you to
spend up to hundreds of dollars in preventable replacements.
You can use an old toothbrush or a
chain-specific brush for scrubbing the chain, but using a chain-cleaner
is less messy and makes the task a breeze. Finish Line has a
good-quality chain-cleaning kit that sells for about $30, but Mountain
Equipment Co-op sells a model for $6 that works just fine. Cleaning
frequency can be personal and depends on what kind of lube you use, but
I recommend cleaning and re-lubing the chain every 300-400km.
Cleaning solution
To remove grease from the chain,
rims and other components, you'll need degreaser ($15-20). Citrus-based
products are environmentally friendly, but may actually be slightly
corrosive to aluminum frames, so be cautious. Most degreasers nowadays
are biodegradable and non-toxic anyway - check the label. I've heard
baby oil also works well, but never tried it.
There are a variety of bike
frame-specific cleaning solutions on the market, but good old detergent
works as well. Rinse your bike after cleaning.
Lube
After cleaning your chain, you'll
need to re-lube it. There is a wide range of bicycle-specific
lubricants engineered for a variety of conditions, and they generally
cost from $5-$25 depending on the quality and container size.
A "dry" lube is versatile enough
for most conditions, penetrates well and is water-resistant without
attracting contaminants. "Wax" lubes are dry, slick and actually lift
dirt away from the chain, but tend to wear down quicker so more
frequent application is necessary. "Wet" lubes are extremely
water-resistant and ideal for touring or mountain-bike riding in
off-road and very wet conditions, but are heavier and get messy
earlier. A note: never use 3-In-1 Lube on your bike, as its stickiness
actually attracts dirt, and is very difficult to remove.
For optimum lubrication, apply oil to your chain 24 hours prior to riding to allow the oil to fully penetrate components.
For a complete overview on cleaning your bicycle, including frequency and supplies needed, go to www.trinewbies.com/BikeClean/Welcome.asp.
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