|
The Right Fit - Tips For Bike Adjustment |
|
|
|
|
Tuesday, 25 December 2007 |
|
A properly fitting bike can make the difference between powerful riding and discouraging discomfort. We've compiled some basic tips on cyling fit here, but the best way to ensure that your bike is correctly set up for you is to pay for a professional fitting at a bicycle store. This is especially important for those who ride a road bike, as your bike set-up will have a greater impact on your cycling form.
Try to book any professional fitting at least a 4-6 weeks before the
big ride to allow your body time to adjust to cycling in a new positon.
If you are making your own adjustments, don't move anything more than a
few millimetres at a time and give each alteration a few rides to
discern whether the new position is working for you. Check out www.caree.org/bike101bikefit.htm for
more advice on each variable of bike fit and how to make the proper
adjustments, as well as a handy chart for troubleshooting bike fit
problems.
Saddle height
- With the pedal at its farthest point from the saddle, there should be a slight bend (25-35�) in the knee
- With your shoes on, your heel should just be able to touch the pedal at full extension
- Your
hips should be steady while you are riding - not rocking side to side,
which means your saddle is too high. To test this, put some spare
change or keys in your jersey back pocket. If you hear it clinking
while you ride, lower your saddle.
Saddle fore/aft position
- With
pedals horizonontal, a plumb line from the bony point just below your
kneecap should bisect the pedal axle. Tie a weighted object to the end
of a peice of string to test this.
Saddle angle
- Top of seat should be level to start with
- If you are experiencing numbness in the crotch, tilt the saddle 1-2 degress downward
- If you are experiencing shoulder and/or wrist pain from pushing on the handlebars, tilt it 1-2 degrees up
Stem height and length
- With
hands on handlebars (mountain/hybrid) or brake hoods (road bike), the
handlebar should obscure your view of front hub. If you can't achive
this with a, 8-12cm stem, the bicycle frame may be the wrong size for
you
- When in the riding positon, your back should be flat, with slightly bent arms
- On a road bike, your upper arms should be at a 90� angle to your torso when gripping the brake hoods
- Top of stem should be 0-5cm below top of seat for casual riding, 5-10cm below for performance (and more flexible cyclists)
Handlebar width and tilt
- Width of handlebars should match the width of the boney points on top of your shoulders
- On a road bike, the lower flat part of the handlebars (the "drops") should be level or slightly angled down
- Brake hoods should be level or slightly pointed up
Shoe cleat position
- The ball of your foot should be directly over the centre of the pedal axle
- The
cleat angle should allow your ankle to sit at a natural position. To
find this position, kneel on a chair or bed so that your feet dangle
off the edge. Look in a mirror or have a friend note the angle at which
your feet hang, then adjust the cleat to ensure that your feet maintain
the same angle when clipped into the pedal
|
|
Last Updated ( Tuesday, 01 January 2008 )
|